← Beer guide

Grodziskie - Poland's contribution to beer, smoked wheat

Poland has its own, unique contribution to the world catalogue of beer styles: grodziskie. It is a historical style from Greater Poland, made from wheat smoked with oak smoke - pale, crystal clear, extremely highly carbonated, dry and very light, and on top of that with a clear note of smoke. Such an unusual combination of features that there is no other beer like it in the world. Once called the Polish champagne, grodziskie was one of the most expensive and prized beers in the country, exported to dozens of countries. Then it almost completely died out, only to be revived thanks to enthusiasts. Here is a guide to grodziskie: where this curiosity comes from, how it is made, why it was called champagne and how its revival came about.

What grodziskie is

Grodziskie (in German Gratzer, from the German name of the town Grodzisk Wielkopolski) is a historical Polish beer style of an unrepeatable character. It is made from wheat malt smoked with oak smoke, which gives a pale, clear, light golden beer of high carbonation, low alcohol content, low to moderate hop bitterness and a clear flavour and aroma of smoke. It is a surprising combination: the beer is light, crisp and dry, and the main notes are the smoke from the smoked malt, the high mineral content of the local water and a characteristic yeast strain. It sounds like a contradiction - smoky, but light and refreshing - and it is precisely this contradiction that makes grodziskie so fascinating. It is one of the most original beer styles in the world. Understanding that grodziskie is a pale, smoky, light beer of smoked wheat is the starting point for the rest. It is a Polish gem in the catalogue of beer styles. We cover smoked beers more in rauchbier.

Oak-smoked wheat

The heart of grodziskie is its unique raw material: wheat malt smoked with oak smoke. It is brewed from wheat dried by passing oak smoke through the grain - it is this treatment that gives the beer its characteristic, smoky character. It is a key difference from most beers: instead of barley, wheat is used, and instead of ordinary drying, oak smoking is applied. Oak gives a different, gentler, more noble smoke than the beech used in German rauchbier. Wheat in turn gives lightness, bready notes and high carbonation. This combination - oak-smoked wheat - is the essence of grodziskie, absent in any other classic style. Understanding that everything begins with oak-smoked wheat is the key to the character of this beer. It is a raw material that defines the style. It is the smoky malt that makes grodziskie unique. We cover wheat beers more in wheat beers.

The Polish champagne

Grodziskie earned the nickname Polish champagne, and for a particular reason. This beer is famous for its extremely high carbonation - it is very heavily carbonated, sparkling and refreshing, like champagne indeed. This high carbonation, combined with the lightness, dryness and pale colour, made it an elegant, festive beer, prized for special occasions. On top of that grodziskie is filtered before bottling (traditionally with isinglass, that is fish finings), which removes the suspension and gives a crystal clear, bright beer - another feature associating it with champagne. It was not an ordinary, everyday beer, but a luxurious drink for special moments. The nickname Polish champagne therefore reflects its elegance, sparkle and prestige. Understanding why it was called champagne shows how highly this style was prized. It is a beer of a noble, festive character. It is proof that beer can be as elegant as sparkling wine.

A table: features of grodziskie

Let us gather the characteristics of grodziskie in one place:

The table shows the heart of grodziskie: a light, pale, highly carbonated, dry beer of a clear note of smoke. It is a unique combination of features that no other classic style has. Smoke plus lightness is its hallmark.

A rich history

Grodziskie has a deep, fascinating history. As early as 1694 the city of Poznan listed a bill for beer from Grodzisk at a rate of 15 guilders per barrel - this shows how prized this drink was, because local beer cost only five to six guilders per barrel then. Grodziskie was therefore two or three times more expensive than ordinary beer, a real luxury. In the 18th century its fame spread throughout Poland, and the style became one of the most expensive beers in the country. The peak of popularity came just before the Second World War, when grodziskie was exported to 37 countries - it was a beer of international renown. This long, proud history makes grodziskie not only an interesting style but also an important element of Polish brewing heritage. Understanding this history shows that grodziskie is a treasure of real, centuries-old value. It is a beer with a past and prestige. It is Poland’s contribution to the world culture of beer.

Decline and revival

Despite its great history grodziskie went through a dramatic decline. The last brewery brewing this style was closed in 1993, four years after the end of communism and the return of private ownership in Poland - the style, once exported to 37 countries, almost completely vanished. But history came full circle thanks to enthusiasts. In 2011 the Polish Homebrewers Association formed a commission for the revival of grodziskie, to develop guidelines describing the style as the former brewery workers remembered it. In 2015, after a 23-year break, the brewery in Grodzisk was reactivated under the name Browar Grodzisk and resumed commercial production of true grodziskie beer. Today the style is going through a revival, driven both by Polish brewers reclaiming their heritage and by craft brewers from across the world, intrigued by its unique profile. Understanding this revival shows how close we were to losing this treasure. We cover the Polish scene more in the Polish craft beer revolution.

Why it is worth knowing

Grodziskie is worth getting to know for several reasons. First, it is a living element of Polish heritage - the only native Polish beer style in the world catalogue, saved from oblivion. Second, it is absolutely unique: there is no other beer with such a combination of smoke, lightness, high carbonation and dryness. Third, it is a fascinating sensory experience - a smoky yet refreshing beer that breaks the usual patterns. Fourth, it is versatile at the table: its smoke and crispness pair beautifully with smoked dishes, fish, cheeses or grilled meats. For an enthusiast grodziskie is a source of pride and a discovery at once. It is worth reaching for a bottle from Browar Grodzisk or a craft interpretation, to feel this Polish curiosity. It is a beer that combines history, heritage and an unrepeatable flavour. It is one of the most original styles to get to know. It is a source of pride for Polish beer lovers.

How to sense it in the mug

Grodziskie is easy to recognise by its characteristic, contradictory profile. You sense above all a clear but noble smoke from the oak-smoked wheat - notes of smoked food, campfire, oak. And at the same time the beer is light, crisp, dry and very heavily carbonated, almost sparkling like champagne. The colour is light golden and crystal clear. To this are added bready, wheaten notes and a delicate bitterness. This combination of smoke with lightness and sparkle is unique - if you are drinking a pale, highly carbonated, dry beer with a clear note of smoke, it is without doubt grodziskie. Serve it well chilled, best with smoked or grilled dishes. It is worth comparing grodziskie with German rauchbier (smoked with beech, darker), to feel the difference of oak and lightness. Over time you will come to appreciate this Polish gem. It is a flavour that surprises the first time.

The essentials in brief

Let us gather it up. Grodziskie (Gratzer) is a historical, native Polish beer style from Greater Poland - the only Polish contribution to the world catalogue of styles. It is made from wheat malt smoked with oak smoke, which gives a pale, crystal clear, extremely highly carbonated, dry and very light beer (2.5-3.5 percent alcohol) of a clear but noble note of smoke. For its high carbonation and elegance it was called the Polish champagne. It has a rich history: as early as 1694 it was two or three times more expensive than ordinary beer, and just before the war it was exported to 37 countries. The last brewery was closed in 1993, but enthusiasts revived the style - in 2015 Browar Grodzisk was reactivated. It is a unique combination of smoke, lightness and sparkle that no other style has. Now you know why grodziskie is a Polish source of pride and a treasure.

Note every beer in GustoNote - including the style and the note of smoke you sense. Over time you will start to recognise the unique character of grodziskie.