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Corn whiskey and moonshine - the American roots of whiskey

Before the refined bourbon maturing in charred oak barrels, there was a raw, clear whiskey from corn - corn whiskey and its illegal cousin, moonshine. They are the American roots, reaching back to the 18th century and the settlers from Scotland and Ireland, who in the Appalachian mountains distilled hooch from whatever was at hand: corn. Corn whiskey is today a legal style of a strict definition, and moonshine is a romantic symbol of illegal, home distilling. Both are raw, unaged distillates, far from smooth bourbon, but fascinating as the living history of American whiskey. Here is a guide to corn whiskey and moonshine: what they are, how they differ, where their turbulent history comes from and how they taste.

What corn whiskey is

Corn whiskey is an American style of whiskey of a strict, legal definition. It must be made from a mash containing at least 80 percent corn and distilled to a maximum of 80 percent alcohol (160 proof). It is a very high corn threshold - much higher than the minimum 51 percent required for bourbon. The key feature of corn whiskey is its relation to the barrel: unlike other American styles, corn whiskey does not have to age in wood at all. If it is aged, it is in uncharred or used barrels, not in new charred ones like bourbon, and at a strength below 62.5 percent. This makes it usually a raw, clear, corn distillate. Understanding that corn whiskey is whiskey of at least 80 percent corn, usually without a barrel, is the starting point for the rest. It is one of the most raw, basic styles of American whiskey. We cover recipes more in the bourbon mashbill.

Corn whiskey versus bourbon

To understand corn whiskey, it is worth setting it against bourbon, because the difference is instructive. Both are American whiskey from corn, but two key things set them apart. First, the amount of corn: bourbon requires a minimum of 51 percent, corn whiskey as much as 80 percent - so corn whiskey is even more corny and sweet. Second, and more important, the barrel: bourbon must mature in new, charred oak barrels, which give it colour, vanilla, caramel and all its complexity. Corn whiskey does not have to mature at all, and if it does, then in uncharred or used oak. This is why whiskey of at least 80 percent corn in a new charred barrel would already be bourbon, not corn whiskey. The barrel is therefore the key boundary. Understanding this difference shows that corn whiskey is in a sense bourbon before the barrel - a raw distillate without the oak frame. We cover bourbon itself more in bourbon explained.

What moonshine is

Moonshine is illegally distilled whiskey - literally produced without government permission and without paying tax. The name (from moonshine, the light of the moon) comes from the fact that the hooch was distilled at night, by the light of the moon, to hide it from the tax collectors. Most often moonshine is simply unaged corn whiskey - a raw, clear distillate from corn, usually of high strength. Importantly, classic American moonshine is often made with the addition of sugar to the mash (to increase the yield), unlike corn whiskey, which uses a traditional grain mash. The key difference between them therefore lies not in the flavour or recipe, but in legality: moonshine is illegal, untaxed production, and corn whiskey is a legal, law-regulated style. Understanding that moonshine is above all illegality, and not a particular recipe, is the key to understanding this concept. It is hooch, a romantic symbol of American rebellion.

A turbulent history

The history of moonshine is a history of rebellion and smuggling, deeply written into American identity. The tradition of American hooch was begun by the Scots-Irish settlers, who in the 18th century settled in the Appalachian mountains - it is estimated that between 1717 and 1775 about a quarter of a million of them arrived. They brought with them the skill of distillation and began distilling whiskey from the corn that grew in the mountains. The conflict with authority began quickly: as early as 1791 a tax collector named Robert Johnson was attacked by moonshiners in western Pennsylvania, when he tried to collect tax on their corn whiskey. It was the beginning of a long war between the mountain folk and the government over the tax on alcohol, culminating in revolts and smuggling. Moonshine became a symbol of independence, resistance to the state and Appalachian culture. Understanding this history shows why moonshine is something more than a drink - it is a legend. It is the spirit of the American frontier in a bottle.

A table: corn whiskey versus moonshine

Let us gather the two concepts in one place:

The table shows that the line between them is mainly legality and the way of mashing, not the character of the distillate itself. Both are raw, corn whiskeys, but moonshine is a concept of an illegal lineage. They are two sides of the same raw root.

A raw, barrel-free flavour

Corn whiskey and moonshine are joined by one thing: a raw, clear character without the oak frame. Without maturing in a charred barrel they have no colour, vanilla, caramel or the complexity of bourbon - they are colourless and show the pure distillate. In the flavour a sweet, corn base dominates: notes of fresh corn, grain, sometimes lightly fruity or grassy tones, with a clear sharpness of young, unaged spirit. It is a raw and direct drink, far from the smoothness of a mature bourbon - it shows whiskey in its most primal, bare form. For some it is a fascinating look at the distillate before the barrel, for others too sharp and simple. The high strength also makes itself felt. Understanding that it is whiskey before the oak explains their raw character. It is the flavour of the American roots, before the barrel polished it. It is the essence of corn in its pure form.

A modern revival

Today corn whiskey and moonshine are going through an interesting revival, though in a legal form. Craft distilleries have begun to produce and sell legal, taxed moonshine and corn whiskey - that is unaged, clear corn whiskey - taking advantage of the fashion for craft and the romance around this tradition. This lets you try the raw distillate, once available only from illegal sources, in a safe, legal version. Some distilleries treat it as a way to show their new make spirit (the fresh distillate) before maturation, others as a tribute to the Appalachian tradition. Modern moonshine is also often flavoured with fruit, referring to the old home infusions. It is a fascinating return to the roots of American whiskey, this time within the law. Understanding this revival shows that raw, corn whiskey still has its place. We cover legal standards more in Bottled in Bond.

How to sense it in the glass

Corn whiskey and moonshine are easy to recognise by their raw, corn character. The drink is usually clear, without the colour of a barrel, which immediately betrays the lack of maturation in charred oak. In the flavour a sweet, fresh corn dominates, notes of grain, sometimes fruity or grassy tones, with a clear sharpness and strength of young spirit. It lacks the vanilla, caramel and oak depth typical of bourbon. If a whiskey is colourless, sharp and clearly corny, that is a good clue that it is corn whiskey or moonshine. Drink it with attention, best with ice or in cocktails, because the rawness and strength can be demanding. It is worth comparing corn whiskey with a bourbon from the same corn base, to feel how much the barrel brings. Over time you will come to appreciate this raw, primal character as a look at the roots of American whiskey. It is the flavour of history in its bare form.

The essentials in brief

Let us gather it up. Corn whiskey and moonshine are the American roots of whiskey, raw and barrel-free. Corn whiskey is a legal style of at least 80 percent corn, which does not have to age in wood, and if it does, then in uncharred or used barrels (a new charred barrel would make it bourbon). Moonshine is above all illegally distilled whiskey - usually unaged corn whiskey, often with added sugar, distilled at night to hide it from collectors. The tradition was begun by the Scots-Irish settlers in the Appalachians in the 18th century, and the conflict over tax (as early as 1791) made moonshine a symbol of rebellion. Both have a raw, clear, corn flavour without the oak frame. Today they are going through a legal revival in craft distilleries. Now you know where the American roots of whiskey come from and how corn whiskey differs from moonshine.

Note every whiskey in GustoNote - including whether it is corn whiskey or moonshine and its character. Over time you will start to recognise the raw, corn flavour of the American roots.