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Alsace - white grapes and style

Alsace is one of the most unique wine regions of France, lying on the border with Germany and combining French finesse with German tradition. It is a land of aromatic white wines, slender bottles and colourful little towns, where wine is labelled by grape rather than by appellation, which is a rarity in France. Riesling reigns here alongside three other noble varieties, giving wines from dry to sweet, always of vivid aroma. In this post you will get to know Alsace from the inside: the four noble grapes, the characteristic labelling, the Grand Cru system, the question of dryness and the famous flute bottle. It is a journey to a region that breaks French conventions and offers some of the most recognisable, aromatic white wines in the world.

Alsace - a French region with a German soul

Alsace lies on the north-eastern edge of France, right by the border with Germany, and over the centuries passed back and forth between the two countries. This dual identity left a deep mark on its winemaking. On one hand it is a French region, on the other strongly marked by German culture, which shows in the names of the wines, the grapes and the very style. Alsace is famous above all for white wines, which make up the decisive majority of production, though a little red Pinot Noir is also made here. The region is protected from the west by the Vosges mountains, which gives it a dry, sunny microclimate, ideal for aromatic white grapes. This combination of French and German soul makes Alsace unique on the wine map of France. Nowhere else in the country will we meet such a style of wine or such an approach to labelling. It is a region of its own, unrepeatable character.

The four noble grapes

At the heart of Alsace winemaking are four grapes considered noble: Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat. It is they that give the region’s finest wines, and only they may be used to produce wines of the highest category, Grand Cru. Each of them has a different character: Riesling is elegance and minerality, Gewurztraminer is intense aroma and spice, Pinot Gris is richness and depth, and Muscat is floral, grapey freshness. Alongside these four noble varieties, Alsace also grows other grapes, like Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner or Pinot Noir, but it is precisely the noble four that define the region’s renown. Understanding these four grapes is the key to knowing Alsace, because the region labels its wines above all by the name of the variety. Let us get to know each of them in turn, starting with the undisputed king of Alsace, that is Riesling.

Riesling - the king of Alsace

Riesling is the undisputed king of Alsace, the grape giving the noblest and most prized wines of the region. Unlike the often sweeter German Rieslings, Alsace Riesling is usually dry, especially in newer vintages. It is a wine of high acidity, vivid minerality and a clean, precise character, with notes of citrus, apple and flowers, and with age developing aromas of petrol or honey. Alsace Riesling is famous for its aging potential and ability to convey the terroir of a particular vineyard. It is a serious, food-friendly wine, going superbly with food. For many connoisseurs it is precisely Riesling from Alsace that is one of the greatest dry white wines in the world, combining structure, acidity and depth. If you want to discover the soul of Alsace, start with Riesling. We write more about the grape itself in our post on Riesling.

Gewurztraminer - aromatic and spicy

Gewurztraminer is the most recognisable and characteristic grape of Alsace, whose very name contains the German word for spice. It is a wine of intense, downright dazzling aroma, with classic notes of lychee, rose petals, exotic fruit and spices. Gewurztraminer has full body, low acidity and often perceptible sweetness, because in Alsace it is usually made in a style from off-dry to slightly sweet. It is a wine of strong personality, which you either love or not, but certainly cannot be confused with any other. Its aromatic intensity makes it a great partner for Asian cuisine, spicy dishes and cheeses of vivid character, like munster. Gewurztraminer is the essence of the aromatic style of Alsace, a sensual and expressive wine. For many drinkers it is precisely this that best captures the exotic, perfumed character the region is famous for. It is a true calling card of Alsace.

Pinot Gris and Muscat

The two remaining noble grapes complete the palette of Alsace. Pinot Gris, known elsewhere as Pinot Grigio, in Alsace gives wines quite different from the light Italian versions: full, rich, of deep body, with notes of ripe fruit, honey, nuts and a characteristic, slightly smoky note. Alsace Pinot Gris is sometimes dry or off-dry and works superbly with full-flavoured dishes, poultry or mushroom dishes. Muscat in turn is an aromatic grape which in Alsace is made in a dry style, which is a rarity, because Muscat is usually associated with sweet wines. Alsace Muscat delights with a fresh, grapey, floral aroma, tasting exactly like freshly picked grapes, but in a dry form. It is a light and refreshing wine, ideal as an aperitif or with asparagus. Together Pinot Gris and Muscat complete the four noble grapes, adding richness and variety of styles to Alsace.

Varietal labelling

One of the most distinctive features of Alsace is the way the wines are labelled. Alsace is the only French region with a long tradition of labelling wines by the name of the grape, rather than solely by appellation. It is a rarity in France, where usually the name of the region or vineyard dominates the label, and the grape is sometimes omitted. In Alsace it is the opposite: the bottle shows a large Riesling, Gewurztraminer or Pinot Gris. This practice is a legacy of the German tradition, which took root here long before varietal labelling conquered the wines of the New World. For the consumer it is a great convenience: you immediately know which grape is in the bottle, without knowledge of complicated appellations. This makes Alsace wines exceptionally friendly and readable. Varietal labelling is one of the elements that distinguish Alsace from the rest of France and bring it closer to the German and New World philosophy of presenting wine. It is a practical, intuitive advantage of the region.

Grand Cru - the great vineyards

At the top of the hierarchy of Alsace wines stands the Grand Cru system. It is a distinction granted to specific, best vineyards of the region, of which there are around fifty-one. Grand Cru wines must meet rigorous conditions: they may come only from a single, designated vineyard of Grand Cru status, whose name must appear on the label, and yields are limited, to ensure concentration and quality. Importantly, for the production of Grand Cru wines in Alsace essentially only four noble grapes are permitted: Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat. This underlines their status as the noblest varieties of the region. The Grand Cru system is meant to indicate wines of the highest class, conveying the unique character of a particular, outstanding terroir. It is the equivalent of the best vineyards in other regions of France. For someone seeking the highest quality, the Grand Cru marking on a bottle from Alsace is a signal that we are dealing with a wine from an elite, designated vineyard and from a noble grape.

Dry or off-dry

One of the bigger puzzles of Alsace wines for consumers is the question of sweetness, because the same grapes are sometimes made in different styles. Let us gather it in one place:

The table shows that Riesling and Muscat are usually made dry in Alsace, while Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer more often in an off-dry or slightly sweet style. It is worth remembering that Alsace Riesling has for some time been almost always dry. This variability of sweetness can be confusing, which is why some producers add a hint of the style on the label. Knowing these tendencies helps predict what to expect.

Flute d’Alsace and how to drink

You will recognise Alsace wines by the bottle alone. The region uses a characteristic, slender, tall and narrow bottle called the flute d’Alsace, that is the Alsace flute. Its elegant, elongated shape is a hallmark of the region, setting it apart on the shelf. The wines themselves are best served well chilled, around eight to ten degrees, to highlight their aroma and freshness. Thanks to the richness of aromas and various levels of sweetness, Alsace wines are versatile companions at the table. Dry Riesling suits fish, seafood and poultry, Gewurztraminer Asian cuisine, spicy dishes and vivid cheeses, Pinot Gris full-flavoured dishes, and dry Muscat works as an aperitif or with hard-to-pair asparagus. The aromatic, expressive character of Alsace wines makes them ideal for demanding, intense cuisine that other white wines cannot handle. They are among the most food-friendly white wines.

Cremant and other wines

Although Alsace is famous for aromatic dry and off-dry wines, its offering is wider. The region also produces excellent sparkling wine, Cremant d’Alsace, made by the traditional method, the same as champagne. It is often great value for money and a popular choice for a sparkling aperitif. Alsace is also famous for sweet late-harvest wines: Vendanges Tardives are wines from overripe, late-picked grapes, and Selection de Grains Nobles are luxurious sweet wines with the participation of noble rot, much like in Sauternes. Alongside white wines, a red Pinot Noir is also made here, though in smaller quantity. This variety, from dry whites, through sparkling, to sweet, makes Alsace a richer region than it seems at first glance. For the explorer it is a treasury of styles, in which everyone will find something for themselves, from an everyday, fresh white to prestigious, aging sweet wines and elegant Cremant.

The key points in a nutshell

Alsace is a French region with a German soul, lying on the border with Germany, famous for aromatic white wines. Its heart is the four noble grapes: Riesling (usually dry, the king of the region), Gewurztraminer (intense, spicy, lychee and rose), Pinot Gris (rich, smoky) and Muscat (grapey, dry). Alsace is the only region of France that labels wines by grape, a legacy of the German tradition. The Grand Cru system distinguishes around fifty-one of the best vineyards, available only for the noble grapes. You will recognise the wines by the slender flute bottle, and the region also offers sparkling Cremant and sweet late-harvest wines. Want to discover the aromatic wines of Alsace and record your impressions? Keep notes in the GustoNote app. See also our posts on Riesling and German Prädikat Rieslings.