← Wine guide

Carmenere - the lost grape of Chile

Carmenere is one of the most astonishing cases of mistaken identity in the history of wine. This noble grape from Bordeaux almost died out in France after the plague of phylloxera, while for over a hundred years it quietly grew in Chile, where everyone took it for Merlot. Only in 1994 did a French researcher discover the truth: Chilean Merlot is in reality the lost Carmenere, considered practically extinct. This is the story of a grape that disappeared from the maps of the wine world, only to be reborn thousands of kilometres from home, as the national pride of Chile. In this post we will trace its extraordinary journey, explain the green trap of pyrazines and show how to recognise and love this exceptional wine.

One of the six Bordeaux grapes

Carmenere belongs to the noble company of six red grapes of historical Bordeaux, alongside Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. In the past it was valued and planted in the region, adding depth of colour and spice to the wines. It was not, however, an easy grape to grow: it flowered unevenly, suffered from the dropping of its flowers and was susceptible to fungal diseases. These traits made winemakers treat it with reserve, despite its potential. Carmenere was thus a grape with character, but also with a troublesome nature. Its membership in the Bordeaux elite is important context: when we speak of it today as a Chilean speciality, it is worth remembering that its roots lie in the most famous wine region of France.

Phylloxera and disappearance in France

The fate of Carmenere in France was sealed by the plague of phylloxera, which in the 1860s devastated European vineyards, including those in Bordeaux. When it came to rebuilding the destroyed vineyards, the winemakers of Bordeaux opted for more reliable and more rewarding grapes to grow, above all Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The capricious Carmenere, susceptible to mildew and the dropping of flowers, aroused no enthusiasm. Its plantings shrank more and more, until the grape almost vanished from French vineyards and was considered practically extinct. This is a dramatic example of how disease and economic calculation can erase a whole variety from a region’s wine map. Had it not been for the earlier emigration of cuttings across the ocean, Carmenere might today be only a forgotten name in old books.

Escape to Chile ahead of the plague

Fortunately for the grape, its cuttings reached Chile back in the 1850s, that is, before the outbreak of the phylloxera epidemic. They were brought from Bordeaux together with other French grapes and planted in Chilean valleys. This twist of fate turned out to be a rescue. Chile has a unique feature: it is naturally protected from phylloxera by geographical barriers, the Andes to the east, the Atacama desert to the north and the ocean to the west. Thanks to this isolation the pest never reached Chilean vineyards on the scale seen in Europe. Carmenere, which was dying out in France, could keep growing in Chile, unwittingly preserved like a living time capsule. This escape ahead of the plague saved the grape for the world, though it long hid its true identity.

A hundred years under someone elses name

Here begins the most interesting part of the story. At the moment the cuttings were brought to Chile, in the confusion common at the time, Carmenere was mistaken for Merlot and planted under that name throughout the country. For over a hundred years Chilean winemakers were convinced they were growing Merlot. Except that their Merlot behaved strangely: it ripened differently, and its leaves turned an intense red far earlier in the season. The wines too tasted different from classic Merlot. Over time this Chilean Merlot even earned its own renown and the name Merlot Chileno. Nobody suspected, however, that it was a different grape altogether. Carmenere thus lived for generations under someone elses name, and its difference was explained by local conditions, rather than the true cause - that it was not Merlot at all.

The discovery of 1994

The truth came out in 1994 thanks to Professor Jean-Michel Boursiquot of the school of oenology in Montpellier. While tasting Chilean wines and looking at the vineyards, he noticed that what passed for Merlot was not Merlot. He drew attention to characteristic features of the plants, including the structure of the flowers, which unambiguously did not fit Merlot. Boursiquot recognised in them the Carmenere considered extinct. Later DNA tests confirmed his intuition: Chilean Merlot is in large part Carmenere. This discovery was a sensation in the wine world and the moment of birth of a new identity for Chile. Overnight the country discovered it possessed a priceless heritage - a lost Bordeaux grape that nobody else in the world had in such quantity. A mistake from a century earlier turned into a great asset.

Why Chile saved the grape

It is worth emphasising why it was Chile that became the ark for Carmenere. The key is the absence of phylloxera. Natural geographical barriers meant that Chilean vineyards largely avoided the pest that decimated Europe. Thanks to this, old, original cuttings from before the epidemic survived in Chile, often growing on their own roots, without the need for grafting onto American rootstocks. Carmenere, which in France fell victim to the plague and the fashion for other grapes, could endure uninterrupted in Chile. The warm, dry Chilean climate also turned out to be ideal for this late-ripening grape, which needs a long, sunny season. The combination of geographical isolation and a favourable climate meant that it was Chile, and not native France, that became the second, true home of Carmenere and its rescue.

The green trap of pyrazines

The key to understanding Carmenere is the ripeness of the fruit. This grape naturally contains a lot of compounds called pyrazines, responsible for green, vegetal aromas associated with green bell pepper. When the fruit does not ripen fully, these green, sharp notes can dominate the wine, giving an impression of rawness and unripeness. This was the bane of early Chilean Carmenere, harvested too soon. The secret lies in patience: Carmenere ripens late and needs a long, warm season for the pyrazines to give way to ripe fruit. At full ripeness the green note becomes a barely perceptible, pleasant accent, rather than a flaw. Understanding this green trap was a breakthrough for Chilean winemakers, who learned to harvest the grape at the right moment, drawing out its fullness instead of rawness.

The style in the glass

A well-made Carmenere is a wine of medium to full body, deep colour and velvety, soft tannins. The aroma is dominated by ripe dark fruit, plum, blackberry, sometimes a note of chocolate, coffee and spices, with a characteristic, delicate spicy accent and a barely perceptible green, pepper note, which in moderation adds character to the wine. In style Carmenere is sometimes compared to Cabernet Franc, with its blend of fruit and herbiness. It is a wine usually smooth, approachable and not too acidic, easy to love. The best examples combine ripe fruit with subtle spiciness and a silky texture. Carmenere can be both a simple, everyday wine and a serious, oak-aged drink from the best Chilean valleys, such as Colchagua or Maipo.

Carmenere versus Merlot

Since they were confused for a century, let us set both grapes side by side:

The table shows that, although both grapes give soft, fruity wines, Carmenere has its own, more spicy and herbal character, especially when harvested at full ripeness. These are the differences Boursiquot noticed.

How to drink it and what to pair

Carmenere is a sociable wine, made for food. Its soft tannin, ripe fruit and note of spices go superbly with red meat, especially grilled and roasted, as well as with dishes of Latin American cuisine. The classic combination is Carmenere with a juicy steak, ribs or dishes with peppers, where the green note of the wine chimes with the vegetable on the plate. It also works with aged cheeses and dishes with vivid spices. Serve the wine a touch below room temperature, around 16 to 18 degrees, to highlight the fruit. Stronger, oaked versions are worth decanting beforehand. It is a friendly and rewarding wine, a good choice both for beginners and for those who want to discover a grape with a fascinating history.

The key points in a nutshell

Carmenere is one of the six red grapes of historical Bordeaux, which almost died out in France after phylloxera, because it was capricious to grow and gave way to Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The cuttings, however, reached Chile before the epidemic and there, thanks to the absence of phylloxera, survived - though for over a hundred years they were taken for Merlot. The truth was discovered in 1994 by Jean-Michel Boursiquot, and DNA confirmed it. The key to a good Carmenere is full ripeness, which tames the green pyrazines and draws out ripe fruit, chocolate and spices. Today it is the national pride of Chile. Want to discover this grape and record your own impressions? Keep notes in the GustoNote app. See also our posts on Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.