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Shochu, awamori, baijiu - the Asian borderlands of spirits

The world of spirits is not just whisky, cognac or rum. East Asia has its own great traditions of strong drinks, often unknown in the West, yet fascinating. Japanese shochu, Okinawan awamori and Chinese baijiu are spirits of a completely different philosophy from whisky - above all because they use mould for fermentation, not malting alone. Baijiu is, on top of that, the most-drunk spirit in the world, though almost unknown outside China. These are the borderlands of the world of spirits, where a different culture and a different biology create flavours you will not find in a Scottish cask. Here is a guide to the Asian spirits: what shochu, awamori and baijiu are, what role koji and qu mould play and how these drinks differ from whisky.

A different world of spirits

Whisky, cognac or rum are Western spirits, based on malting grains or fermenting sugar. East Asia went a different way. The local spirits - shochu, awamori, baijiu - rely on moulds that break down the starch from grains or rice into sugars, before yeast turns them into alcohol. It is a completely different biology of fermentation than malting barley in whisky. It also gives different flavours: more earthy, umami, fermented, sometimes downright exotic to the Western palate. Getting to know these drinks is a step beyond the usual patterns of distillation. Understanding that Asia has its own, separate world of spirits based on moulds is the key to the whole subject. It is a different philosophy of strong alcohol. They are flavours from off the whisky map. We cover whisky from Japan more in Japanese whisky.

The role of koji and qu mould

At the heart of the Asian spirits is mould. In Japan it is koji (Aspergillus oryzae and relatives), in China qu (jiuqu). It plays the same role as malting in whisky: it breaks down the starch from grains or rice into fermentable sugars. But it does so differently - using a living mould cultivated on grain, rather than through the sprouting of malt. Koji is the foundation of all of Japanese fermented cuisine (sake, miso, soy sauce), and in shochu and awamori it starts the fermentation. Chinese qu is a mixture of moulds, yeasts and bacteria in pressed bricks, giving baijiu its complexity. Understanding that mould replaces malting here is the key to the difference from whisky. It is the biological heart of Asian distillation. It is a different way of releasing sugar from starch.

Shochu - the Japanese spirit

Shochu is a traditional Japanese spirit, often confused with sake - but sake is brewed (like beer), while shochu is distilled (like whisky). It is made from various raw materials: rice, barley, sweet potato (imo), buckwheat, even brown sugar, always with the involvement of koji. Classic shochu (honkaku, single-distilled) usually has around 25 percent strength - far less than whisky - and retains a clear character of the raw material. Sweet-potato shochu can be earthy and sweetish, barley cleaner, rice delicate. It is drunk with water, ice, hot water or in cocktails. It is the everyday, versatile spirit of Japan. Understanding that shochu is a koji spirit of lower strength sets it apart from sake and whisky. It is the versatile spirit of Japan. It is the taste of the raw material in pure form.

Awamori - the spirit of Okinawa

Awamori is a spirit from Okinawa, the oldest distilled drink of Japan, with its own, separate tradition. It differs from shochu in a few details. First, it is made from long-grain indica rice, not Japanese rice. Second, it uses black koji (Aspergillus luchuensis), which gives acidity and character. Third, it is single-distilled and traditionally aged - mature awamori is called kusu and can age for years, gaining smoothness and depth. Awamori is sometimes stronger than shochu and has a rich, slightly sharp, maturing character. It is a cultural pride of Okinawa. Understanding that awamori is an Okinawan spirit from black koji and indica rice sets it apart from shochu. It is the oldest spirit of Japan. It is the taste of an island tradition.

A table: three spirits

Let us gather them in one place:

The table shows that the use of mould unites them, while the raw material, origin and strength differ. Three separate traditions of one Asian world of spirits.

Baijiu - the Chinese giant

Baijiu is a Chinese spirit and at the same time the most-drunk strong alcohol in the world - through the enormous population of China, though almost unknown outside it. It is made mainly from sorghum (sometimes with the addition of other grains), using qu. It is distinguished by solid-state fermentation, often in earthen pits in the ground, where the grain ferments for months with a wealth of microbes. Baijiu is very strong, usually 40-60 percent, and remarkably aromatic - to the Western palate often shockingly intense. It is a drink deeply written into the Chinese culture of toasts and banquets. Understanding that baijiu is a strong sorghum spirit on qu, the most-drunk in the world, opens the eyes to the scale of this tradition. It is a giant unknown to the West. It is the heart of Chinese drinking culture.

The aroma types of baijiu

Baijiu is not one flavour but several aroma categories, almost like whisky styles. The most important are sauce aroma (jiangxiang, like the famous Moutai) - complex, umami, fermented, reminiscent of soy sauce. Strong aroma (nongxiang) - fruity, sweetish, the most popular. Light aroma (qingxiang) - clean, delicate, floral. Rice aroma (mixiang) - mild, from glutinous rice. Each type results from different raw materials, moulds and fermentation methods. For someone used to whisky it is a completely new language of flavours. Understanding that baijiu divides into aroma types orders its diversity. It is a map of the flavours of the Chinese spirit. It is a richness as deep as the world of whisky.

How they differ from whisky

What unites and divides these drinks from whisky? They are united by the distillation of grains or rice into strong alcohol. They are divided above all by the way the sugar is released: whisky malts barley, Asia uses koji or qu mould. They also differ in raw material (rice, sorghum, sweet potato instead of malt), strength (shochu and awamori often lower than whisky, baijiu higher) and flavour - the Asian spirits tend to be more umami, earthy, fermented. Whisky almost always ages in a cask; shochu often does not, and baijiu ages in ceramic. They are different worlds, though both are grain spirits. Understanding these differences broadens the horizon of every lover of strong drinks. It is a mirror in which whisky is seen more clearly. We cover the distillation of grains itself more in single malt, blend and grain.

How to get to know them

How to begin the adventure with Asian spirits? Approach them without expectations from the world of whisky - they are different flavours, a different language. Try shochu first with water or ice, to sense the character of the raw material (sweet potato, barley, rice). Taste awamori slowly, especially mature kusu, appreciating its smoothness. Drink baijiu in small sips, ideally with food, as in the Chinese tradition - its intensity is easier to appreciate at the table. Start with the milder types (e.g. baijiu of light or rice aroma). Note your impressions, because these are new and instructive flavours. Understanding how to get to know them with an open mind opens the door to a fascinating world. It is a tasting of a different culture. It is an adventure off the beaten whisky trail.

The essentials in brief

Let us gather it up. Beyond whisky, East Asia has its own great spirits based on moulds, not on malting. Shochu is a Japanese spirit from rice, barley or sweet potato on koji mould, usually around 25 percent, confused with brewed sake. Awamori is an Okinawan spirit from indica rice on black koji, the oldest in Japan, aged as kusu. Baijiu is a Chinese spirit from sorghum on qu, fermented in earthen pits, very strong (40-60 percent) and the most-drunk spirit in the world, divided into aroma types (sauce, strong, light, rice). They differ from whisky above all in the use of mould instead of malting, as well as in raw materials and flavours. The best way to learn them is with an open mind. Now you know the Asian borderlands of the world of spirits.

Note every spirit in GustoNote - including the Asian shochu, awamori or baijiu and their unusual flavours. In time you will build your own map of strong drinks from beyond the world of whisky.