Japanese whisky - why it is so prized
Japanese whisky is a phenomenon of recent decades: in less than a hundred years it went from nothing to the world’s summit, winning the most important awards and reaching dizzying prices. It is delicate, precise and elegant, combining Scottish roots with a Japanese drive for perfection. For some it is the best whisky in the world, for others an object of collector’s desire. It is worth knowing, because it is a fascinating story of how a craft carried from one country to another can blossom anew.
Scottish roots
Japanese whisky was born in 1923, when the first and oldest Japanese distillery, Yamazaki, was founded by Shinjiro Torii, the creator of the Suntory company. A key figure was also Masataka Taketsuru, who had earlier studied whisky production in Scotland and brought its secrets back to Japan, later founding the second giant, the Nikka company. That is why Japanese whisky was modelled on Scotch from the start: the same malted barley, the same pot stills, a similar process. I describe the whole whisky-making process in how whisky is made.
Japanese lightness and precision
Though the method is Scottish, Japanese whisky developed its own character. Producers aimed for a style that would suit delicate Japanese cuisine, so the whisky came out lighter, more elegant and subtle than many Scotches. It is a precise, clean, perfectly balanced whisky, in which there is no room for chance. The Japanese culture of striving for perfection in craft, visible in cooking or knife-making, is reflected in whisky too. Masterful blending, composing whisky from many barrels into a harmonious whole, also plays an important role.
Mizunara, the exotic oak
The most characteristic, purely Japanese element is mizunara oak, the native Japanese oak. It began to be used out of necessity: after the Second World War, imported barrels were scarce, so producers turned to local wood. Over time, mizunara became the most prized and sought-after oak for maturing whisky.
Mizunara is, however, exceptionally difficult to use. It is very porous, so whisky evaporates from it faster, the wood takes a long time to dry, and the barrels leak easily. What is more, mizunara needs an exceptionally long time to give up its character: usually at least fifteen years, and it reaches its full flavour only after twenty-five. The patience pays off, though, because mizunara gives inimitable notes of sandalwood, incense, coconut and citrus that no other oak provides. Because of its rarity and difficulty, mizunara barrels today make up a fraction of a percent of all casks. I cover how different oaks shape flavour in where whisky flavours come from.
Watch the labels
Here is an important practical warning. For years the term Japanese whisky was abused, because the law was imprecise and some bottles with a Japanese-looking label actually contained imported whisky, for example Scotch, merely bottled in Japan. Only in recent years have clearer standards been introduced defining what may be called Japanese whisky. So it is worth checking whether a bottle comes from a recognised producer and a Japanese distillery, especially in the cheaper segment.
The most important names
Among Japanese whiskies it is worth knowing a few key brands. Suntory is behind the Yamazaki and Hakushu single malts and the famous Hibiki blend. Nikka, founded by Taketsuru, comprises the Yoichi and Miyagikyo distilleries. It is these names that win international awards and build the reputation of the whole category. Their rarity and renown mean prices can be high, though, and the oldest editions have become collector’s items.
How to explore it
The best way to feel the Japanese style is to compare a Japanese whisky with a comparable Scotch, to catch that characteristic lightness, cleanness and precision. In GustoNote you note the producer, cask type and your impressions of every Japanese whisky, and after a few entries you will see whether this elegant, subtle style suits your taste. It turns a fashionable, expensive category into a conscious element of your flavour map. You will find a full overview of world whisky in whisky around the world.