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Volcanic wines of the world: Etna, Santorini and the Canaries

Among the countless kinds of wine there is a category that increasingly fires the imagination of lovers: volcanic wines. These are wines born on soils shaped by fire - from lava, ash, pumice and basalt, on the slopes of active and extinct volcanoes. From the slopes of Etna in Sicily, through the island of Santorini in the Aegean Sea, to the Canary Islands in the Atlantic, these dramatic terroirs give wines of remarkable minerality, salinity and tension. They are wines of a strong identity, which cannot be confused with any others. In this post you will get to know what a volcanic wine is, where its character comes from, and the three most famous regions: Etna, Santorini and the Canaries. It is a journey to wines born from fire and rooted in stone. Let us start with what a volcanic wine actually is.

What a volcanic wine is

A volcanic wine is a wine from vines growing on soils of volcanic origin - shaped by materials such as lava, ash, pumice and basalt. These soils form from the products of eruption and have a completely different character than typical wine soils. They are usually poor in nutrients, but rich in minerals: potassium, calcium, iron, magnesium and numerous trace elements. This combination forces the vine to struggle, to root deep in search of water and food, which gives smaller berries, lower yields and more intense, expressive wines. Volcanic wines are thus not one style or grape, but a whole category linked by a common denominator - volcanic soil. They are linked by a characteristic minerality, often salinity and a perceptible tension. They are wines of a strong, recognisable identity, shaped by the fire of the earth. Understanding what volcanic soil is is the key to this post. So let us get to know where exactly their exceptional character comes from.

Where their character comes from

The character of volcanic wines is born above all in the soil. Volcanic soils, although poor in nitrogen and organic matter, are remarkably rich in minerals, which translates into wines of clear minerality and an earthy, smoky character. In acid soils the wines are more mineral, of higher acidity and greater tension. The content of iron and potassium in many volcanic soils can lend the wines a salty sweetness, that is a characteristic impression of salinity. The poverty of the soil forces the vine to effort, which gives low yields and concentrated grapes. The good permeability of volcanic soils, built of porous material, means that water drains quickly, forcing the roots to reach even deeper. All this combines into wines of intensity, freshness and expressiveness. The character of volcanic wines is a direct effect of the unique terroir, in which fire shaped the earth. It is proof that soil can leave a deep, recognisable mark on wine. Let us now get to know the three most famous volcanic regions, starting with Etna.

Etna - the fire of Sicily

Etna in Sicily is one of the most fascinating volcanic regions in the world, lying on the slopes of the highest active volcano in Europe. Vines grow here on soils of lava and ash, at various altitudes, which gives the wines a cool climate despite the southern location. The red wines of Etna are made mainly from the grapes Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, giving wines of vibrant red fruit, a dusty, tannic grip and a smoky, mineral character - often compared to elegant Burgundy wines. The white wines of Etna, made mainly from Carricante, show bright citrus, taut acidity and an undercurrent of salinity. Etna is a terroir of huge diversity: different slopes, altitudes and lava flows give wines of different character, like volcanic equivalents of Burgundy climats. It is a region that in recent decades has experienced a true renaissance and amazed the world. Etna is proof that the fire of a volcano can give wines full of elegance and tension. Let us now get to know the second famous volcanic region - Santorini.

Santorini - the island of ash

Santorini is a Greek island in the Aegean Sea, formed from one of the most powerful volcanic eruptions in history. Its soil is a mix of ash, pumice, volcanic rock and bits of black, red and white stone, almost devoid of organic matter. It is an extreme terroir: hot, dry and windy, where the vine struggles to survive. To protect the grapes from wind and sun, a unique way of training the vine is used here, in the form of baskets called kouloura, in which the shoots are coiled into a nest. The flagship wine of Santorini is a dry white from Assyrtiko, designated as PDO Santorini, characterised by a dense structure, crisp acidity and clear minerality. Assyrtiko from Santorini is famed for an almost salty maritime note and a huge ageing potential. It is one of the most characteristic white wines in the world. Santorini is proof that even on ash and pumice great wines can be born. We write more about this grape in our post on Assyrtiko from Santorini.

The Canary Islands - Atlantic fire

The Canary Islands, a Spanish archipelago in the Atlantic off the coast of Africa, are another fascinating volcanic region, rediscovered in recent years. These islands are of volcanic origin, and the vine grows here on black, lava soils, often in remarkable conditions. On the island of Lanzarote the vine is planted in hollows dug into a layer of black volcanic gravel (picón), protected by stone walls from the strong wind - it is one of the most spectacular wine landscapes in the world. Importantly, the islands were never touched by phylloxera, thanks to which they kept many old, indigenous varieties. The common denominator of wines from the Canaries is salinity and a feeling of purity and freshness, resulting from the volcanic soil and the influence of the ocean. These wines, long known mainly locally, today are gaining recognition from connoisseurs around the world. The Canaries are Atlantic fire, giving wines of a unique, salty and mineral character. It is another proof of the diversity of volcanic wines.

Minerality and salinity

A trait linking volcanic wines, regardless of region, is a characteristic minerality and often salinity. Minerality is a hard-to-grasp but recognisable impression: notes of stone, flint, smoke or wet gravel, giving the wine a feeling of purity and tension. In volcanic wines it is especially clear, which is attributed to the richness of minerals in the soil, although the exact mechanism is the subject of scientific discussion. Salinity is another characteristic impression, often described in wines from Santorini or the Canaries, attributed to the content of potassium and iron in the soil and the closeness of the sea. These two traits, minerality and salinity, give volcanic wines their recognisable, fascinating character. They are wines that taste different than those from limestone or clay soils. For many tasters it is precisely this clear minerality and salinity that make volcanic wines so exciting. It is the taste of fire and stone in the glass. We write more about this phenomenon in our post on minerality in wine.

Three volcanic regions in a table

Let us set the three most famous volcanic wine regions side by side:

The table shows that although the volcanic regions differ in grapes, they are linked by a common denominator: clear minerality and often salinity. Etna gives elegant reds and taut whites, Santorini the famous, salty Assyrtiko, and the Canaries clean, fresh wines from indigenous varieties. All grow from soil shaped by fire. It is proof that volcanic terroir leaves a deep mark on wine, regardless of the place in the world.

Why it is worth getting to know volcanic wines

Getting to know volcanic wines is a fascinating adventure for every wine lover. First, they offer flavours you will not find anywhere else: clear minerality, salinity and tension, being a direct reflection of the fiery terroir. Second, they are wines of a strong identity and sense of place, ideal for those who value authenticity and terroir. Third, volcanic regions often kept indigenous grapes and traditional methods of cultivation, giving wines that are unique and historical. Fourth, many of them offer an excellent quality-to-price ratio, being still less known than the classic regions. Fifth, the landscapes of volcanic vineyards - from the slopes of Etna to the lava fields of Lanzarote - are simply spectacular. Volcanic wines are an invitation to discover wines born from fire. Instead of reaching again and again for the classics, it is worth trying a wine from beneath a volcano and seeing how fire and stone taste. It is a journey that rewards curiosity.

The key points in a nutshell

Volcanic wines are born on soils shaped by fire - from lava, ash, pumice and basalt, poor in nutrients but rich in minerals. This forces the vine to struggle, giving low yields and intense, expressive wines of a characteristic minerality and often salinity. The three most famous regions are Etna in Sicily (elegant reds from Nerello, taut whites from Carricante), Santorini (the famous, salty Assyrtiko on ash and pumice, vines in kouloura baskets) and the Canary Islands (clean, salty wines from indigenous varieties on lava soil). They are linked by the taste of fire and stone. Want to get to know volcanic wines and record your impressions? Keep tasting notes in the GustoNote app. See also our posts on Assyrtiko from Santorini and on minerality in wine.