Chardonnay - one grape, a hundred faces
Chardonnay is the most versatile white grape in the world, a true chameleon that can wear a hundred faces. From the same grape come a lean, acidic, mineral wine from Chablis and a lush, buttery, oaked wine from Burgundy, plus Champagne. That is why many people say they do not like Chardonnay, when in fact they dislike only one of its styles. It is worth knowing, because understanding Chardonnay means understanding how huge an influence on a wine’s flavour comes not from the grape itself but from the winemaker’s hand.
A grape that is a canvas
The key to understanding Chardonnay lies in one feature: it is a relatively neutral grape. Unlike the very aromatic Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling, Chardonnay has no single dominant aroma but is like a blank canvas on which the winemaker paints. That is why it is called the winemaker’s grape: a huge part of its character comes not from the grape but from decisions made in the cellar, such as the use of oak, malolactic fermentation or the growing climate. Interestingly, genetically Chardonnay is a cross of Pinot Noir and the little-known Gouais Blanc.
Climate, the first layer of flavour
The first layer of character is given by the climate it grows in:
- A cool climate gives lean, crisp wines with high acidity and notes of lemon, green apple and pear. It is a fresh, tense style.
- A warm climate gives fuller, riper wines with notes of tropical fruit: pineapple, mango or peach. It is a lush, round style.
That is why Chardonnay from cool France tastes completely different from one from hot California or Australia.
Oak and butter, the second layer
The second, even more important layer comes from the cellar. Here lies the biggest difference:
- Unoaked Chardonnay, aged in steel, keeps its freshness, fruit and minerality. The classic example is Chablis: lean, acidic, lemony, almost salty, with no trace of vanilla. I cover minerality in minerality in wine.
- Oaked Chardonnay, aged in a barrel, gains notes of toast, vanilla, spice and creaminess. The classic example is white Burgundy from the Côte de Beaune. I cover oaky notes in where wine gets oak.
To this is added the characteristic buttery note, which comes neither from the fruit nor the oak but from malolactic fermentation, converting the sharp malic acid into gentle lactic acid and giving a creamy, buttery impression. I describe it in how wine is made.
Why many confuse Chardonnay with oak
In the 1990s, very heavily oaked Chardonnays were fashionable, excessively buttery and vanilla-laden, to the point that many people came to hate that style and said they did not like Chardonnay at all. It is a misunderstanding, because what they disliked was the excess of oak, not the grape itself. Lean, mineral Chablis is still Chardonnay, just at the other end of the spectrum. So if you once dismissed Chardonnay, try an unoaked version before passing judgement.
Chardonnay in Champagne
Chardonnay is also one of the key grapes of Champagne. A Champagne made only from Chardonnay is called Blanc de Blancs and is usually elegant, fresh and mineral. It is further proof of the versatility of this grape, which can be both a still and a sparkling wine. I cover how the bubbles are made in how sparkling wine is made.
How to explore it
The best way to understand Chardonnay is to compare a lean, reductive Chablis and a lush, oaked Chardonnay from a warm climate side by side. It is hard to believe it is the same grape. In GustoNote you note the style, presence of oak, acidity and your impressions of every Chardonnay, and after a few dozen entries you will see whether you prefer the fresh and mineral style or the full and buttery one. It turns a chameleon into a specific map of flavours. You will find a full overview of wine types in types of wine.